About the author

‘Love him or hate him, he’s the most stylish writer [surfing] has seen for decades.’ —Fred Pawle, the Australian 

‘Absolutely the most entertaining surf book in years, a breathless adrenalized romp. More importantly, it’s a jaw-dropping introduction to Smith’s greatest – and most promising – literary creation, himself.’ – Dan Duane, author of Caught Inside: A Surfer's Year on the California Coast

‘Gleeful defiance and feral wit … fuel this compulsive, wild ride of a book’ —the Age

‘A hip exposé of Hawaii’s North Shore surfing culture … entertains, while superior reporting informs and illuminates much about the surf industry’s peculiar machinations, its cavalcade of sun-bleached heroes and the troubled history of Hawaii itself … effortlessly shifting from the profound to the profane.’ —Kirkus